Libyan excavations have added depth to modern archaeology
Written by
Jean-Marie Blas de Roblès
According to Blas de Robles, underwater archaeology is no different from terrestrial archaeology; they use similar techniques even if underwater excavations are more complicated to undertake and require special equipment and even specific skills.February 23, 2009: The French writer Jean-Marie Blas de Roblès tells how he pursued his dream of uncovering “fragments of raw beauty long since forgotten” from the depths of the sea, an emotional experience very different from a treasure hunt.
Between 1986 and 2001, the novelist took part in underwater archaeological excavations off the coast of Libya, exploring that “unseen part of ourselves” which must be carefully and respectfully protected.
It all began in 1985. Not long returned from his first terrestrial dig with the French archaeological mission in Libya — one of the privileges of friendship — Claude Sintes [Director of the Museum of Ancient Arles] wasted no time in sharing his experiences with me: coming from Apollonia, he had seen Cyrene, Sabratha and Leptis Magna — Greek and Roman remains surpassing in size everything we knew or could have imagined.
He said he had no idea that whole towns lay buried under the sand of the seashore in such wondrous and magnificent settings.
But even better was the fact that hardly anyone had ever thought of exploring the seabed off this coastline. Everything was still exactly where it had been in the seventh century BC! Imagine the fabulous finds there might be!
Ancient shipwrecks for certain — because the shores of the Gulf of Sidra had always been among the most inhospitable coastlines in the world — but also buildings swallowed up by the sea and statuary and materials of all kinds… Furthermore, he had secured permission to organize an underwater archaeological campaign for the following summer!
He dealt with the technical side himself, but there was still the question of recruitment. The Libyan regime did not license small trading operations, so it was extremely difficult to arrange for the expedition’s supplies.
As for the conditions of the excavations and the accommodation, they would be even worse: “Spartan” seemed rather a mild euphemism to describe the situation. Therefore, he had to be able to have a technical team in which he had complete confidence, and people he could count on to be available at all times.
I had an adequate knowledge of archaeology and genuine experience of the sea, and I was used to living in confined spaces: if I wouldn’t mind doing the cooking as well as working on the digs, then I would be the first recruit…
So that is how it all began. I jumped with joy when I agreed to go — I would even have done the cleaning if it had meant going with him to Libya — but I never suspected that my contribution, and that of all the other members of the team, would actually begin with precisely that kind of work.
In August 1986, after a three-day journey, we were ready to get down to work. The first day was spent making our site headquarters habitable. It was a dilapidated house from the Italian colonial period infested with scorpions and huge dark brown cockroaches.
The next day, an initial reconnaissance of the site with mask and snorkel confirmed the observations of the American archaeologist Nicholas Flemming; as he had noted in 1957 after his first survey, the buried structures of the port of Apollonia were clearly visible and without doubt they justified the excavations we were going to undertake.
On a more personal level, they immediately prompted me to discover a universe I had hitherto believed to be the preserve of literature. In a single leap I had been transported to the worlds of Jules Verne and H.G.Wells — the worlds of Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Sea and The Time Machine came together in the joyous feeling of knowing for certain that I was swimming over the abandoned city of Atlantis!
I had come to my love of Greece through an acquaintance with the pre-Socratics, and I fell in love with Antiquity through baptism in the warm waters of Apollonia.
Practised in hunting with a harpoon since my early adolescence, I had regarded the depths of the sea – the fields of laminaria, the rocky caverns covered with spiky coral, the wavy formations of sand – merely as the hiding places or clearly designated locations of my prey.
These all too familiar underwater landscapes assumed a phantasmagorical dimension in reality: in one direction, there would be an alignment of Cyclopean blocks dovetailed together; in another, a square tower, and beyond that banks of oars for triremes sculpted in the rock, and in two metres of water a fish tank described by Vitruvius [the 1st century B.C. Roman architect], with its fitments for octopuses and morays…
Everywhere, between each stone, each structure that was more or less discernible beneath its covering of algae, there lay visible, and easily within reach, dozens, indeed hundreds of objects that were deserving of places in museums or at least in archaeologists’ archives: the bellies and bottoms of amphorae from all periods, stamped Rhodian handles from the 6th century B.C., Roman cups, broken decorative vases…
A world was lying there, set as in the aftermath of a disaster, and on display for the pleasure of those willing to take an interest in it. All that remained of Apollonia, the Greek port of ancient Cyrene sung of in olden times by Pindar or Callimachus, was a tongue of red land bristling with Byzantine columns, a theatre on a hillside and various later developments.
But a few metres from the coast, awaiting visitors, was a city that had been swallowed up like Pompeii. An incredible prize for the scientist and a gift from the gods for the dreamer I have never ceased to be.