Abydos: Damaged Egyptian "Mecca" To Be Restored - PICTURES

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A surge in farmland and building construction in the Egyptian desert
has taken its toll on Abydos, the setting of an ancient pilgrimage.

But the archaeological site—home to pharaoh-era temples and large
tombs (above, an unidentified tomb)—will be protected from
development, archaeologists said in October 2008.

Photo courtesy
Egyptian Supreme Council of Antiquities










                                        Damaged Egyptian "Mecca" To Be Restored







Andrew Bossone in Cairo
for National Geographic News
October 16, 2008

A development boom near Egypt's Abydos archaeological site is damaging one of the most
sacred gathering places for ancient pilgrims, experts say.

Millions of Egyptians crossed the desert surrounding Abydos from 664 B.C. to A.D. 395 to pay
homage to the god of the dead, Osiris. Many of Egypt's earliest pharaohs were buried at the site.

Modern pressures in the form of new farms and buildings have taken their toll on the 3.1-mile
(5-kilometer) wide area, sometimes called the Mecca of ancient Egypt.

The temples and tombs are also home to the earliest known Egyptian hieroglyphics.

(See photos of Abydos.)

But now, an international team of archaeologists are rallying to protect Abydos from future harm.

This month, a government-run project to renovate Abydos will begin, according to archaeologists
and architects involved in the effort.

"It is the site where we learn the most about the origins of [pharaohs in] Egyptian culture," said
Günter Dreyer, director of the German Archaeological Institute in Cairo.

"Imagine a road running though this."

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Balancing Act



The Abydos site has been nicknamed Omm El Qaab, or Mother of Pots in Arabic, because pilgrims
left millions of pieces of pottery in the desert around several cemeteries and temples built by Seti I, Ramses I, Ramses II, and Ramses IV.

Ancient pharaohs built in the desert partly to avoid damage from the annual floods and farming practices in the Nile Valley.

But arable land comes at a premium in Egypt, where desert makes up the majority of the country. Today most of the country's population are clustered around the Nile River.

"In Egypt, because there are so many monuments, the area for living is restricted by nature," Dreyer said.


As a result, local farmers have begun to reclaim land in the Abydos desert up to the walls of ancient temples.

(Read how Egyptian farmers are "greening" the desert.)

Of course the living have their rights, Dreyer pointed out.

"We can't say we'll make all of Egypt a museum for ancient culture and living people starve or die."

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Original Design



Architects on the project say their plans respect the site's original design.

The edge of Abydos formed a clear demarcation between the town for the living and sacred structures
for the dead, said architect Tarek Waly.

"The line between life and death, the Nile Valley, and the desert—you can see it," Waly said.

He believes the sacred line that divided the farmland and the tombs dissolved when townspeople moved
into the site in the past, and he hopes to restore it.

"If you cross the line you enter into the other life. This has to be clear on our minds."

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First King's Last Rites



Photograph by Kenneth Garrett

In the beginning every Egyptian ruler prepared a two-part funerary complex: an enclosure close to the Nile's floodplain for the celebration of rituals and a tomb deeper in the Western Desert—the land of the dead.

Recent excavations at Abydos have revealed this 5,000-year-old mud-brick enclosure of Aha, the first
king of the 1st dynasty.

Six people, probably poisoned in connection with the royal funeral, were buried just outside the enclosure wall.

"The king has the power of life and death over his subjects,"

says Matthew Adams, associate director of the dig.

"He has the power to take with him those whom he chooses—or needs—to be at his disposal in the
next world."

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From Here to Eternity



Photograph by Kenneth Garrett

Archaeologist Günter Dreyer surveys what five years of excavation have revealed: the 4,700-year-old tomb of Khasekhemwy, last ruler of the 2nd dynasty.

In the distance a wadi, or canyon, in the desert plateau was probably regarded as an entrance to the realm of the dead.

"Tombs were just through-stations on the way there,"

says Dreyer.

In the corner of Khasekhemwy's tomb pit a ramp rises in the direction of the wadi, offering the deceased king a perpetual path to the hereafter.

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Priceless Archives



Photograph by Kenneth Garrett

Discovered in the tomb of a predynastic king, bone and ivory tags bear administrative records more
than 5,000 years old—some of the earliest writing yet known.

As interpreted by Günter Dreyer, the number of strokes on each tablet in the upper row records the
size of a piece of fabric, with one stroke equal to one square cubit (about two and a quarter square
feet).

At left a bird and a mountain symbolize the sunlight that emerges in the east every morning.

And at right two symbols show the origin of delivered goods—a tree stands for "agricultural estate";
a dog identifies the estate's founder.

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Holy Land



Photograph by Kenneth Garrett

Mounds of sherds—the remains of cups, bowls, and other pieces of pottery left by ancient pilgrims—
have inspired a modern nickname for the site of Egypt's earliest royal tombs:

Umm el-Qaab, or "mother of offering pots."

Abydos became an important pilgrimage center after Middle Kingdom priests proclaimed the tomb of
Djer, a 1st-dynasty king, as the burial place of Osiris, god of the dead. An annual festival honoring
the death and resurrection of Osiris brought crowds from around the country to this sacred place.

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Pillar of Faith



Photograph by Kenneth Garrett

Looted in antiquity for its stone, a temple likely dedicated to the worship of Osiris retains fragments
of blocks adorned with the names of 30th-dynasty pharaohs Nectanebo I and II.

From atop the ruins archaeologist Michelle Marlar, from New York University's Institute of Fine Arts,
looks over the first excavation of the site.

"If this does prove to be the Osiris temple,"

she says,

"then it's the latest phase of what is believed to have been a long line of temples stretching back
to the Early Dynastic period."

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By John Galvin 

Photographs by Kenneth Garrett 









                                                             A B Y D O S



                New evidence shows that human sacrifice helped populate the royal city of the dead. 





 
King Aha, "The Fighter," was not killed while unifying the Nile's two warring kingdoms, nor while building
the capital of Memphis.

No, one legend has it that the first ruler of a united Egypt was killed in a hunting accident after a reign
of 62 years, unceremoniously trampled to death by a rampaging hippopotamus.

News of his demise brought a separate, special terror to his staff. For many, the honor of serving the
king in life would lead to the more dubious distinction of serving the king in death.
 
On the day of Aha's burial a solemn procession made its way through the sacred precincts of Abydos, royal necropolis of Egypt's first kings. Led by priests in flowing white gowns, the funeral retinue included the royal family, vizier, treasurer, administrators, trade and tax officers, and Aha's successor, Djer. Just beyond the town's gates the procession stopped at a monumental structure with imposing brick walls surrounding an open plaza. Inside the walls the priests waded through a cloud of incense to a small chapel, where they performed cryptic rites to seal Aha's immortality.
 


Outside, situated around the enclosure's walls, were six open graves. In a final act of devotion, or coercion, six people were poisoned and buried along with wine and food to take into the afterlife.
One was a child of just four or five, perhaps the king's beloved son or daughter, who was expensively furnished with ivory bracelets and tiny lapis beads.
 


The procession then walked westward into the setting sun, crossing sand dunes and moving up a dry riverbed to a remote cemetery at the base of a high desert plateau.

Here Aha's three-chambered tomb was stockpiled with provisions for a lavish life in eternity. There were large cuts of ox meat, freshly killed waterbirds, loaves of bread, cheese, dried figs, jars of beer, and dozens of wine vessels, each bearing Aha's official seal.

Beside his tomb more than 30 graves were laid out in three neat rows.

As the ceremony climaxed, several lions were slain and placed in a separate burial pit. As Aha's body was lowered into a brick-lined burial chamber, a select group of loyal courtiers and servants also took poison and joined their king in the next world.

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"Yellah! Yellah! Yellah!" barks Ibrahim Mohammed Ali, the Egyptian crew boss, spurring his workers to move it, move it, move it. "You are big fat water buffalo! You are dung!"

The mostly teenage boys hauling buckets of sand giggle nervously but pick up the pace while keeping an eye on their still ranting foreman. "You chatter worse than a bunch of women!" Standing tall in a loose, flowing galabia and white head wrap, Ibrahim looks somehow wizardly, maybe capable of vaporizing slackers with a cast from the long, intimidating stick-wand he keeps clutched behind his back.

Ibrahim's 125-person crew is working with a team of archaeologists to uncover part of the immense royal burial center at Abydos, located 260 miles (420 kilometers) up the Nile from Cairo.

As a line of workers use hoe-like tureyas to scrape away the sand, the so-named bucket boys haul away clanking pails of dirt and pour it like water into the laps of sifters. Excavators are on the ground with trowels in hand, surveyors are plotting the coordinates of artifacts, a photographer is documenting each new find, and illustrators are pencil-drawing an ancient coffin and an infant skeleton.
 
Kneeling on one knee in the center of this swarm is Matthew Adams, associate director of a multiyear project sponsored by the University of Pennsylvania Museum, Yale University, and New York University's Institute of Fine Arts. Adams is brushing sand away to reveal a smooth, ancient mud floor. "If this is from the time of Aha," he says in a raspy voice dried out from months in the desert, "then it's the oldest funerary enclosure ever found in Egypt. We're talking about the beginning of Egyptian history. Not one trowel has been laid here before now."

Abydos is the source of many of Egypt's most ancient artifacts. In 1988 Günter Dreyer, a German archaeologist, unearthed small bone and ivory tags intricately inscribed with one of the world's earliest forms of writing—crude hieroglyphs developed at about the same time as Mesopotamian cuneiform. In 1991 Adams's mentor and the project's director, David O'Connor, uncovered an eerie fleet of wooden boats buried in enormous brick-lined graves.

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Now O'Connor and Adams are digging down into the beginning of Egypt's 1st dynasty, a pivotal
period when kings laid down the roots of religion, government, and architecture that would last
for the next 3,000 years. Unlike the colossal pyramids of later pharaohs, the more modest burial
complexes of the Abydos kings consisted of two separate structures—a tomb and a ceremonial
enclosure.

The large, walled enclosures where mortuary rituals were performed were situated on the edge
of town, while the underground tombs were located more than a mile away on the threshold of
the desolate Western Desert, a place known to ancient Egyptians as the land of the dead.
 
All of the 1st-dynasty tombs and most of the enclosures excavated so far are accompanied by
subsidiary graves—hundreds in some cases—containing the remains of elite officials and courtiers.

Egyptologists have long speculated that these graves might hold victims of sacrifice but also
acknowledged that they could simply be graves reserved for the king's staff, ready to use as
each person died naturally.

The question of whether ancient Egyptians practiced human sacrifice has intrigued archaeologists
since the late 1800s.

Frenchman Émile Amélineau and his English rival Sir Flinders Petrie excavated all the 1st-dynasty
desert tombs by 1902.

Each had been heavily looted in antiquity, and no royal remains were found except a single bejeweled
arm.

Still, there was much yet to discover. In Aha's tomb were the remains of dozens of wine vessels, tools,
some jewelry, and signs of food.

Beside the tomb Petrie discovered 35 subsidiary graves, which he called the Great Cemetery of the
Domestics. While he didn't dwell on it in his published papers, he hinted at human sacrifice.

Later, in the 1980s, German archaeologists uncovered the remains of at least seven young lions.

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The only funerary enclosure standing during Petrie's time was the massive 4,600-year-old
Shunet el-Zebib, built by the 2nd-dynasty king Khasekhemwy.

The towering shuneh (storehouse), with its three-story walls enclosing nearly two acres
of space, still dominates the landscape. Two of Petrie's associates discovered another 2nd-
dynasty enclosure, built by King Peribsen, and Petrie returned in the 1920s and found hun-
dreds of subsidiary graves. The graves surrounded three 1st-dynasty enclosures, but curi-
ously, Petrie located only one of them. These discoveries led archaeologists to speculate
that they had found only half the puzzle of Abydos, and that for each tomb they had unco-
vered out in the desert, there should be a corresponding enclosure still hidden on the city's
edge.


In 1967 David O'Connor came to Abydos to search for, among other things, the funerary enclosures
that had eluded Petrie. Almost 20 years later, while digging in the shadow of the shuneh, he made
a totally unexpected discovery.
 
"I opened an excavation pit, and poking into one corner of it was this intrusion," O'Connor recalls.
"I knew it was something from the earliest dynasty, I just didn't know what."

To O'Connor's amazement, the "intrusion" turned out to be one of 14 ancient boats, each buried in
its own brick-lined tomb adjacent to the enclosure of a still unknown king.

The boats, which measured up to 75 feet (23 meters) long, were expertly crafted and had been fully functional when buried. They proved to be the world's oldest surviving boats built of planks
(as opposed to those made of reeds or hollowed-out logs).
 
"The boats are like the servants who were buried at Abydos," says O'Connor. "The king intended
to use t hem in the afterlife in the same manner that he used them before his death." In life the
boats enabled the king to travel rapidly up and down the Nile in a powerful display of wealth and
military might. As the Egyptian kings also expected to be kings in the afterlife, the boats would
be useful tools.

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News of the boats'discovery rippled through the Egyptology world and also energized O'Connor's
hunt for the lost enclosures of the first kings. To help focus the search, O'Connor and Adams
sought out Tomasz Herbich, a Polish archaeologist who specializes in finding buried ruins with a
device called a fluxgate gradiometer, a type of magnetometer. It measures slight variations in
the Earth's magnetic field caused by certain types of iron oxides beneath the surface.

"These oxides are present in Nile mud," explains Herbich. "And what's the main material used by
ancient Egyptian builders? Sun-dried bricks made of Nile mud!"
 
For nearly a week in 2001 Herbich's assistant walked more than ten miles (16 kilometers) a day
over a numbing grid, taking over 80,000 measurements. The survey turned up several small
funerary chapels but no enclosures. Then, during Herbich's last hour in the field, his magnetic
divining rod finally found royal mud. He downloaded the data onto his laptop, and as the digital
map came into focus, he called out, "We have an enclosure!"
 
Adams and a small crew went to work uncovering part of the enclosure, but the field season was ending, and they had to rebury it and return home. In 2002 O'Connor again asked Adams to go to Abydos, this time to undertake a massive excavation of the new discovery.
 
After a month of tediously peeling back layers of sand, Adams uncovered jars and wine stoppers bearing Aha's name, confirming that his lost funerary enclosure was at last found.
 
Once the crew reached the enclosure's floor, they discovered six surrounding graves. Three con-
tained the bodies of adult women, one held the remains of a man, and one held a young child with
25 ivory bracelets embellished with tiny lapis beads. The sixth grave remains unexcavated. In each case the archaeological evidence pointed to a sacrificial death.
 
"The graves were dug and lined with bricks, then roofed with wood and capped with mud-brick masonry," says Adams. "Above that masonry cap, a plaster floor extends out from the enclosure
and covers all the graves." The floor extension is seamless-an important clue, for it would have
been impossible to entomb people under the floor except all at the same time.
 
It's unlikely that 41 people-the six at Aha's enclosure plus 35 at his tomb-would have died of
natural causes at the same time. Another possibility is that they died randomly over time and
were then stockpiled and reburied en masse.

But for O'Connor and Adams, the evidence strongly suggests they were sacrificed.

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How were they killed?

Petrie believed that he saw signs of post-burial movement in the tomb graves, suggesting that
people were alive or semiconscious when buried. Brenda Baker, a physical anthropologist from
Arizona State University, examined all the skeletons from Aha's enclosure and found no signs of
trauma. "The method of their demise is still a mystery," says Adams. "My guess is that they were
drugged."
 
Or strangled, suggests Nancy Lovell, a physical anthropologist at the University of Alberta.

Lovell studied skulls from Aha's tomb and found telltale stains inside the victims' teeth. "When some-
one is strangled," she explains, "increased blood pressure can cause blood cells inside the teeth to
rupture
and stain the dentin, the part of the tooth just under the enamel."
 
It now seems clear that human sacrifice was practiced in early Egypt-as was true in other parts
of the ancient world. Sir Leonard Woolley's excavation during the 1920s and '30s at Ur in modern-
day Iraq revealed hundreds of sacrificial graves dating back to 2500 b.c. and related to the burial
of Mesopotamian kings and queens. Evidence for sacrifice has also been seen in Nubian, Meso-
american, and several other ancient cultures.
 
In Egypt enthusiasm for the grim practice seems to have waned quickly. Aha's subsidiary graves
are the earliest to be found, and his successor, Djer, embraced the practice with fervor-more than
300 graves flank his tomb, and another 269 surround his mortuary enclosure.

But Qaa, the last ruler of the 1st dynasty, had fewer than 30 sacrificial graves beside his tomb,
although his enclosure remains lost.

And by the 2nd dynasty the practice simply stopped.



O'Connor thinks it ended because the royal staff rebelled.

"People tend to say that the Egyptians were becoming more civilized and that's why it stopped, but I think
that reflects our own prejudices. These graves included relatively high-ranking people, and the reason it
stopped might be more political than ethical."

Perhaps it was an honor to serve the king in the afterlife, but it was an honor that could wait.